Films have always inspired me. I’ve used them as visual backdrops in my shows because they evoke such powerful emotions,” Alexander McQueen once remarked. Fashion designers have consistently drawn inspiration from the mise-en-scenes, settings, and costumes of their favorite films, with some influences being more apparent than others. Cinematic stills have been reimagined through designers’ eyes in nearly every collection, reflecting a deep-rooted connection between the realms of filmmaking and fashion design. These intertwined industries both prioritize bringing visionary concepts to life, showcasing the mutual influence of fashion and film. Yet, beyond this interplay, these moments highlight designers’ exceptional talent in blending various art forms into their collections, crafting entirely new worlds through fashion.
1. Ferragamo SS21 /Gattaca (Andrew Niccol, 1997)
After collaborating with renowned director Luca Guadagnino on the previous season, Paul Andrew developed a keen interest in film directing. For Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection, he embraced this passion and transformed into a filmmaker, crafting his own sci-fi inspired narrative for the season. The show space was a captivating blend of virtual reality and CGI, drawing loose inspiration from the pre-millennial cult classic “Gattaca.” Illuminated tunnels reminiscent of Uma Thurman’s escapades and spaceships soaring past windows that framed a futuristic city set the scene.
Andrew’s collection mirrored this sci-fi aesthetic, presenting a futuristic twist on classic designs. He introduced elevated, slim uniforms enhanced by a vibrant fluorescent color palette. Bionic bodysuits and all-in-ones, inspired by motorcycle gear, were layered under heat-processed, chrome-free-tanned leather coats. Clear biodegradable PVC pants and ponchos evoked the spirit of another cult favorite, “Blade Runner,” while rubberized wool suits added to the innovative lineup. Paul Andrew’s vision for Ferragamo S/S 2021 seamlessly blended fashion and film, creating a futuristic yet timeless collection.
2. Undercover FW19 / A Clockwork Orange (Stanley Kubrick, 1971)
Jun Takahashi, ever the connoisseur of cinematic references, infused Undercover’s FW19 collection with his enduring Kubrick nostalgia. This collection, which remains one of the brand’s most iconic, saw Takahashi channeling elements from “A Clockwork Orange” onto the runway. Bowler hats and walking sticks reminiscent of the Droogs made a striking appearance, alongside nuanced nods like Beethoven’s visage emblazoned on a sweatshirt. Takahashi’s homage to the film extended to a reinterpretation of the Venetian mask, drawing a parallel between the film’s protagonist, Alex DeLarge, and the artist Caravaggio. This parallel was underscored through invitation designs and the use of red draperies throughout the collection, suggesting that the madness of a criminal and the genius of an artist are merely different facets of the same troubled existence.
3. Prada FW14 / The Bitters Tears of Petra Von Kant (Rainer Werner Fassbinder, 1972)
For Miuccia Prada, drawing inspiration from the past—and from her own archives—has become a cornerstone of her design philosophy. Prada’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection, aptly titled Act II, exemplifies this approach. This collection serves as a poignant homage to the arthouse aesthetic of New Wave director Rainer Werner Fassbinder and his 1972 film, The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant. The film delves into the tumultuous dynamics of a haughty fashion designer’s relationships with other women, vividly capturing her emotional state through her attire and hairstyle.
Miuccia Prada’s collection channels this cinematic narrative with a straightforward yet evocative style. She replaces flashy embellishments with shearling edgings, incorporates loose-fitting satins reminiscent of 1920s flapper dresses, and features oversized chevron sweaters alongside a striking red collarless coat. The oversized shearlings with boxy shoulder pads layered over delicate organza slips emphasized the theatricality that Miuccia aimed to achieve.
This collection perfectly encapsulates the essence of the Prada woman: resilient yet sensitive, dramatic but never capricious. Through this work, Miuccia Prada masterfully blends past influences with contemporary design, creating a timeless ode to complex femininity.
4. Alexander McQueen SS95 / The Birds (Alfred Hitchcock, 1963)
Alexander McQueen’s enduring fascination with Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 film “The Birds” is evident in his work. The film, known for its thrilling and lush depiction of a town under attack by maniacal birds, was a favorite of McQueen’s during his childhood visits to his aunt’s house. Like the film’s protagonist, McQueen was dedicated to presenting women who wore his creations as poised and striking, even amidst chaos and violence. He incorporated power coats adorned with blackbird prints and feathers, and created dresses made from scotch tape and covered in tire marks, evoking the imagery of being run over by a car.
In “The Birds,” the otherwise cunning and elusive protagonist, Melanie Daniels, is made vulnerable by her clothing, a concept McQueen found compelling. As Simon Ungless, McQueen’s classmate from Central Saint Martins and longtime friend, explains, “This beautiful woman was placed into a different environment and put at extreme risk but won in the end. It was all very McQueen.
5. Raf Simons SS18 / Blade Runner (Ridley Scott, 1982)
There are juxtapositions in a unique way taken out of context; it’s fundamentally about movies—specifically Blade Runner—and about cultures merging. This is the most significant message for me,” said Raf Simons. For his namesake label’s S/S 2018 show, Simons sought to revisit his beginnings: the era of youths who crafted their own looks, embodying punk, new wave, and new romantic styles—but with a heightened intensity. True to Raf’s form, it had to be extreme. The inspiration was unmistakable, even amidst the alley’s darkness: from paper lanterns adorned with New Order and Joy Division graphics by Peter Saville, to scrolling neon signs reading “Replicants” in homage to the science fiction film Blade Runner.
